Using stretcher bars for embroidery
painting + needlepoint stretchers
Stretcher bars aren’t just for canvas—they are a great way to keep your fabric taut and flat while you stitch and are a wonderful way to display finished embroidery projects. This simple method creates a sturdy and rectangular support for your stitching for those wanting a break from the hoop.
You’ll need:
Four stretcher bars in your chosen dimensions. Example: for an 8x10 inch ‘canvas’ you need two 8-inch bars and two 10-inch bars.
Fabric scissors
Fabric of your choice with at least 2-3 inches extra on each side. Example: for an 8x10 ‘canvas’ you need to cut at least 12x14 inches of fabric.
Staple gun and staples
Mallet (optional, sometimes corners need to be knocked into place)
Hammer (optional, sometimes stubborn staples need a little extra help getting all the way into the wood)
Canvas pliers (optional, provide a little extra grip when stretching the fabric)
method:
Assemble the frame. Connect the four stretcher bars by sliding the corners together to form a rectangle or square. Press firmly or tap together with a mallet until the are snug—no glue or nails needed. Optional: use the corner of a sheet of paper to check that you have four right angles.
Layout and cut your fabric on a flat, clean surface. Center your frame on top of the fabric. You need a few extra inches of material all the way around the frame to give you something to grip as you stretch and stapl. Try to line up the grain of the fabric with the verticals and horizontals of the frame. If the grain of your fabric in running on an angle, you risk extra stretch and warping.
Start stapling. Begin in the center of one side. Fold the fabric over the bar’s edge, pull it tight, and staple it to the back of the bar. Repeat this step on the opposite side of the frame, pulling fabric tight before stapling. Alternating sides helps keep the tension even. Add center staples to the remaining two sides.
Continue securing the fabric by working from the center out towards the corners for best results. Pull the fabric tight each time, and add 2-3 more staples per side before turning the canvas and working on an opposite side.
Stop stapling with 1-2 inches of space ahead of the corner. Fold the corners neatly, like wrapping a present, and secure them with a few staples.
Double-check your tension. Make sure the fabric is smooth and drum-tight across the frame. Adjust or re-staple if needed.
Trim excess fabric so it doesn’t get caught in your stitching.
You’re ready to stitch! This surface is perfect for applying PEEL.STICK.STITCH. designs or for tracing on a design by taping a printed pattern to the backside of your fabric and placing over a light box or against a bright window.
tips:
You’ve got to put a bit of muscle into it for the tightest stretch. Take breaks if you need to. Canvas pliers can help hold the fabric nice and tight if you’re having trouble just using your hands.
Be sure to pre-wash (and iron) fabric before stretching if you plan to use water-soluble transfers.
If you would rather stitch your piece first and then stretch it, you can! Just check that your design stays centered and make sure to work evenly from side to side to keep your stitches from distorting.
Painting stretcher bars are commonly sold at art supply shops and are generally available in various sizes and sold one at a time. These bars may be a little easier to find, but you will have less stitchable surface area because the bars are thicker.
Needlepoint stretcher bars are also available in a range of sizes and are generally sold in packs of two. The corners fit together slightly differently and the corner joint is sometimes a bit more visible than when compared to painting bars. Needlepoint bars are thinner, giving you a larger stitchable surface.
